Growing strawberries is rewarding until something else gets to them first. Animals that love eating strawberries range from large mammals like deer and raccoons to tiny insects you can barely see.
Knowing which pest is responsible and how to stop it is the difference between a full harvest and a picked-clean patch.
This guide covers almost every animal that eats strawberries: what the damage looks like, how to tell pests apart, and exactly what to do about each one.
Key Takeaways:
Strawberry pests will be the worst from May to July when strawberry plants ripen.
Various pests eat different parts of the strawberry plant, from the leaves and roots to the fruit itself.
Identifying which pest is damaging your strawberries is essential to developing an effective repellent program.
* This post contains affiliate links.
Mammals That Eat Strawberry Plants
Mammals are among the most destructive threats to a strawberry patch. They can strip fruit overnight, traample plants, and damage roots from below. The six most common mammal pests are mice, deer, raccoons, voles, squirrels, and rabbits.
1. Mice
Mice are adaptable rodents that live close to human homes and gardens. They eat the fruit, stems, roots, and leaves of strawberry plants. Most activity happens at night.
Signs of damage:
Tiny scrape marks on stems and fruit
Disturbed roots from underground burrows
Missing immature strawberries (cached for later)
Root damage is the most dangerous; it can kill the plant from below or severely stunt growth.
How to stop mice:
Keep grass mowed short so predators can spot them
Trim bushes at the base to remove hiding spots
Apply scent deterrents like cayenne pepper, black pepper, or vinegar near plants
Remove outdoor pet food, spilled birdseed, and fallen fruit
Deer browse on strawberry plants at dawn and dusk, though habituated deer will feed at any hour. They eat fruit and leaves, and can trample surrounding plants.
Signs of damage:
Torn, jagged leaf edges, deer lack upper incisors and do not cut cleanly
Missing fruit eaten entirely, not just nibbled
Flattened plants and hoof tracks nearby
How to stop deer:
Install a motion-activated sprinkler like the Orbit 62100 Yard Enforcer to startle deer during active hours
Raccoons are opportunistic nocturnal feeders that will raid strawberry patches overnight. They are lazy by nature, make your yard inconvenient and they will move on.
Signs of damage:
Missing fruit combined with rolled-up turf sections
Tipped garbage cans, spilled birdseed, or missing outdoor pet food nearby
Nighttime noises: barking, growling, and hissing from the yard
Apply scent deterrents frequently, peppermint, coffee grounds, cayenne pepper, Epsom salts, and vinegar all work
Seal gaps under porches and sheds with galvanized mesh; these are their daytime hiding spots
Keeping a clean yard, securing your garbage, and using scent deterrents will protect your strawberries and keep them on your plant instead of in a raccoon’s belly!
4. Voles
Voles create tunnel systems and eat strawberry roots even when plants are dormant. According to the University of California, populations can reach up to 100 voles per acre.
Signs of damage:
Chewing on the plant crown, affecting leaves and flowers above
Stunted spring growth from winter root feeding
Small chew marks directly on fruit
Surface tunnels with multiple exit holes visible after snow melts
How to stop voles:
Keep grass mowed, trim low branches, and remove brush piles
Install quarter-inch hardware cloth around plant roots as a burrowing barrier
Set pinwheels or streamers near fruit to startle them away
Ground and tree squirrels are most active mid-morning. They prefer fruit trees but will target strawberries when available. Burrowing squirrels can be a serious problem for root health.
Signs of damage:
Burrows near roots that dry out soil and cut off water
Missing fruit
Shallow holes with cached strawberries buried inside
How to stop squirrels:
Remove brush piles and seal entry points under porches, sheds, and roof edges
Destroy, do not just fill, existing burrows; squirrels return to filled holes
Install a 1-inch mesh fence 30 inches high, buried 12 inches deep with the bottom 6 inches bent outward in an L-shape
Rabbits consider strawberries a favorite food and will target them specifically, not just browse past. They rarely travel far from their burrow, so damage means they are living close by.
Signs of damage:
No fruit production, rabbits eat blossoms before they can fruit
Clean 45-degree angled cuts on leaves, stems, and flowers
Chewed plastic irrigation lines or garden hoses
How to stop rabbits:
Install 1-inch mesh fencing 48 inches tall and buried 10 inches into the ground
Remove brush piles and trim low branches to eliminate hiding places
Use scent deterrents: garlic, cayenne pepper, blood meal, chives, and vinegar
Insects and Invertebrates That Eat Strawberry Plants
Insects and invertebrates account for the widest range of strawberry damage. Some attack from below the soil, others target leaves, and several go straight for the ripening fruit. Identifying the exact pest before treating saves time and protects beneficial insects.
7. White Grubs (May Beetles, Japanese Beetles, European Chafer)
White grubs are larvae of several beetle species. They grow up to 38mm long, range from gray to white, and live in the soil beneath strawberry plants. May beetle larvae cause the most damage in their third summer. Japanese and chafer beetle larvae complete their life cycle in one year.
Signs of damage:
Plants suddenly wilting or dying with no visible above-ground cause
Roots eaten away to about an inch beneath the soil surface
Adult Japanese beetles leave skeletonized leaves, only the veins remain
How to stop white grubs:
Avoid planting strawberries where grass recently grew; wait at least two years
Remove adult Japanese beetles by hand and drop in soapy water; spray kaolin clay to prevent return
8. Strawberry Crown Moth
The adult crown moth has a yellow-jacket pattern, but it is the larvae that do damage. Larvae are white with brown heads, grow to 25mm, and bore into roots and crowns. They hatch in early summer, overwinter in the crown, then resume feeding in spring.
Signs of damage:
Stunted, limp plants with foliage beginning to turn red
Plant separates from the ground at the crown when pulled
Smooth brown or orange eggs laid individually on the underside of leaves
How to stop crown moths:
Remove and destroy infested plants immediately
Top strawberry plants to about 1 inch above soil after summer production, this discourages egg-laying
Spider mites, including the two-spotted spider mite, strawberry spider mite, and carmine mite, suck sap from the underside of leaves. Numbers peak in spring right before fruiting. Even a small population can reduce yield during this critical window.
Signs of damage:
Reddish, rust-toned tinge on leaves
Dry, withered, or stunted plants
Tiny white, yellow, or green specks on the underside of leaves
Apply polyethylene plastic mulch around plants to reduce mite numbers
Water consistently, stressed strawberries attract spider mites
Switch to mite-resistant strawberry varieties; spider mites develop tolerance to chemical treatments quickly
10. Strawberry Leafrollers
Leafroller caterpillars are green when young, turning brown as they grow to half an inch long. The larvae roll up leaves with silk webbing and feed from inside the roll.
Signs of damage:
Rolled-up leaves held together by silky strands
Scorched or wilted leaves where young caterpillars have fed before rolling
How to stop leafrollers:
Remove dead leaves and debris from around plant bases
Pick off and discard rolled or damaged leaves as you find them
Leafrollers rarely cause severe damage on their own
11. Strawberry Crown Borer
The crown borer is a flightless brown weevil about one-fifth of an inch long. Adults eat leaves; larvae are far more destructive, boring into the crown until they hollow it out completely and kill the plant.
Signs of damage:
Plants becoming stunted or dying with no surface-level explanation
White legless grubs about one-quarter inch long inside a dissected crown
How to stop crown borers:
Remove infested plants and till the soil before replanting
Plant new strawberries away from problem areas, crown borers cannot fly, so they crawl between plants
12. Cabbage Loopers
Cabbage looper caterpillars are about an inch long and bright green with a white stripe on each side. They produce four to five generations per year, feeding from early spring through fall. They attack strawberries planted near their preferred hosts: cabbage and lettuce.
Leafhoppers resemble tiny green grasshoppers and only reach about one-eighth of an inch long. Adults have clear wings and spines on their legs. Both nymphs and adults damage strawberries from early summer through fall.
Signs of damage:
Leaves that appear stunted, curled, or yellowing along the edges
Aphids are tiny sap-sucking insects, usually green or yellow, found on stems and leaf undersides. They rarely damage strawberries directly but transmit plant diseases and promote sooty mold growth.
Signs of damage:
Curled leaves with small dead spots
Stunted shoots
Sticky honeydew residue on leaves and stems
Increased ant activity around plants
How to stop aphids:
Prune affected areas for small infestations
Blast aphids off with a strong jet of water or wipe by hand
Use reflective plastic mulch around plants, aphids avoid feeding near reflective surfaces
For large populations, apply neem oil, canola oil, or insecticidal soap
Plant fragrant companion plants nearby, as strong scents deter aphids
The bud weevil is reddish-brown, about one-tenth of an inch long, with two black spots on its back and a long snout. Females puncture flower buds to lay eggs, then nearly sever the bud from the stem. Active in June and early July.
Signs of damage:
Flower buds that fail to open or hang partially detached from the stem
Buds fallen off the plant entirely
Small holes in immature flower petals from weevil snouts
Lygus bugs are beetle-like insects about 6mm long with long antennae and a brown or yellowish triangle near the head. They lay eggs in stems in early spring. Young Lygus bugs resemble fast-moving aphids.
Signs of damage:
Misshapen fruit with a puckered area of dense seeds
Fruit that stays white, green, or brown instead of ripening red
Plant a variety of flowering plants to attract these beneficial insects
Keep the area near plants free of weeds
17. Strawberry Thrips
Western flower thrips are thin, winged insects just under 1mm long. Color ranges from white to dark brown depending on life stage. They begin feeding and laying eggs in early spring and produce wilted, unattractive-looking fruit.
Signs of damage:
Fruit with brownish or yellowish area around the cap instead of bright red
Wilted, unattractive-looking berries throughout the season
How to stop thrips:
Introduce natural predators: Orius (minute pirate bug) and predatory mites Amblyseius cucumeris and Amblyseius swirskii
For chemical control, use spinosad or azadirachtin products, but note these also affect beneficial insects
If you’d like, take a look at our in-depth article on the different ways to get rid of thrip eggs fast so you can keep these nuisances away from your strawberries!
18. Spotted Wing Drosophila and Fruit Flies
The spotted wing drosophila (SWD) was introduced to North America from Asia. Unlike common fruit flies that target overripe fruit, female SWD lay eggs as soon as a berry begins to turn red. The summer life cycle is about eight days.
Signs of damage:
Sunken brown spots on the outside of berries
Tiny white worm-like larvae (about 3mm) visible inside cut fruit
How to stop fruit flies:
Harvest ripe berries quickly, larvae need time to develop inside the fruit
Remove rotting fruit and produce from around the patch
Use commercial fruit fly traps carefully, sticky traps catch beneficial insects too
Attract hummingbirds with nearby nectar feeders; hummingbirds actively feed on fruit flies
Sprinkle black pepper around the patch, an easy, eco-friendly deterrent
Sap beetles are small, almond-shaped beetles between one-eighth and one-quarter inch long with knobbed antennae. Varieties include the dusky sap beetle, the strawberry sap beetle, and the picnic beetle (four distinct orange spots). They feed on damaged and overripe berries in June and July.
Signs of damage:
Small cavities dug into ripe berries, similar in appearance to slug damage
Beetles visible on and around ripe fruit
How to stop sap beetles:
Keep the area around plants clean and dry
Remove all overripe berries and nearby produce promptly
Set trays of beer or vinegar nearby, beetles are drawn to fermentation smells
Avoid insecticides on ripe fruit; the berries would be inedible
Isopods (pill bugs, roly-polies, sow bugs) and millipedes are arthropods, not insects. Both are generally beneficial in gardens, feeding on decaying matter. However, they will feed on ripe strawberries, especially fruit with open wounds from other pests.
Signs of damage:
Holes in berries, often with the isopod or millipede still inside
Isopods and millipedes found under dead leaves or damp debris near plant bases
The meadow spittlebug is a small, blunt-headed insect about one-quarter inch long with mottled brown coloring. It is best known for the frothy white mass its nymphs produce on stems, a protective nest as they grow. Spittlebugs feed on plant sap from late spring through fall.
Signs of damage:
Distinctive white foamy clumps on stems or near plants
Stunted fruit and wrinkled, dark green leaves on affected plants
How to stop spittlebugs:
Clear weeds away from plants
Spittlebugs usually appear in small numbers; remove adults and nymphs by hand or blast with water
22. Slugs and Snails
Slugs and snails are slimy mollusks that damage leaves, stems, and fruit. Most activity happens at night or during cool, rainy days. They can range from one-quarter inch to nearly a foot long.
Signs of damage:
Rough, jagged holes in leaves and fruit
Glistening slime trails wherever they have traveled
How to stop slugs and snails:
Switch from overhead sprinklers to drip irrigation, wet foliage gives them easy climbing access
Bury cup-sized containers in the soil so the rim is flush with the ground; fill with beer or a yeasty liquid, they fall in and cannot escape
Remove excess debris, fallen leaves, and pulled weeds that give them daytime shelter
You can read more about the places snails come from at night here. You may be providing these mollusks shelter without even realizing it!
23. Armyworms
Armyworms are smooth-skinned caterpillars of a small brown and gray moth. Usually yellow or greenish on top with a dark stripe running their length, they grow to about 30mm. Female moths lay eggs in clusters of 50 to 150, covered with white scale that looks like a cotton ball.
Signs of damage:
Leaves skeletonized to veins and transparent connective tissue
Shallow brown wounds on berries
White fuzzy egg clusters on the underside of leaves
How to stop armyworms:
Drop visible armyworms into soapy water; crush egg clusters by hand
Apply spores of Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.) to foliage and soil
Use pheromone traps specifically targeted at armyworms
Apply neem oil, armyworms avoid treated areas
24. Cutworms
Cutworms are caterpillars of the Noctuid moth, not true worms. The most common variety is the black or greasy cutworm. They grow to about 1.5 inches, are mottled gray or brown, and curl into a ball when disturbed. They hide in soil by day and feed at night.
Signs of damage:
Irregular holes in lower leaves at the base of the plant
Stems severed near the ground
Large chunks removed from berries, enough to suggest a bigger animal
How to stop cutworms:
Keep the area around plants free of weeds
Search for cutworms at night with a flashlight and drop them in soapy water
Root weevils are flightless beetles with a long narrow snout and a uniform-colored back. Adults feed on leaves in late spring and summer. Larvae feed on roots from late summer through spring, going dormant in winter. Root feeding can be severe enough to kill the plant.
Signs of damage:
Leaves with scalloped or notched edges along the margins from adult feeding
Wilting plants; white legless grubs up to half an inch long found at the roots or crown
How to stop root weevils:
Remove affected plants immediately to prevent spread to neighboring plants
Rotate your strawberry planting location annually if weevils recur year after year
Introduce parasitic nematodes, they have shown success in controlling root weevil populations
26. Cyclamen Mites
Cyclamen mites are microscopic, too small to see with the naked eye. They thrive in warm conditions and inside protected pockets like unfolded leaves. They often arrive in late summer, lie dormant through winter, and then rapidly multiply once weather warms. Each new generation matures in just two weeks.
Signs of damage:
Leaves that are crinkled or crumpled
Withered flowers
Brownish, dehydrated-looking berries
How to stop cyclamen mites:
Avoid replanting strawberries in areas with a history of cyclamen mite problems
Dip infested plants in water at exactly 100 degrees F for 30 minutes before replanting, this kills mites without harming the plant
Introduce the six-spotted thrips as a natural predator
Chemical controls have shown limited effectiveness against cyclamen mites
Birds That Eat Strawberries
Not all birds are enemies of the strawberry patch. Many species eat the insects and slugs that cause damage. The ones to watch are those that target the fruit directly, and a few simple deterrents are usually enough to protect your crop.
27. Robins, Starlings, Cedar Waxwings, and More
Several bird species will peck at strawberries, leaving holes and peck marks in ripening fruit. Goldfinches go only for the seeds, leaving the flesh intact. Larger species like robins, starlings, and cedar waxwings eat the fruit whole or in chunks.
Common fruit-eating birds at a glance:
Bird
Identifying Features
American Robin
Orange-red breast, gray upper parts, white lower belly
European Starling
Glossy black with iridescent purple-green sheen
Cedar Waxwing
Sleek brown plumage, black mask, waxy red wingtip markings
Gray Catbird
Slate gray, black cap, chestnut undertail
House Sparrow
Brown and gray plumage, black bib, chestnut nape
Baltimore Oriole
Bright orange and black coloring
Goldfinch
Yellow-green body; eats only seeds, leaving the fruit intact
Signs of bird damage:
Distinct peck marks and holes in fruit, larger and cleaner than insect damage
Feathers, droppings, or bird tracks near plants
Missing seeds with the majority of fruit left intact (goldfinch-specific)
How to stop birds from eating strawberries:
String Goetor Bird Scare Tape near vulnerable plants, double-sided for maximum reflective effect
Hang aluminum foil strips near plants; movement and reflection deter most species
Install bird feeders nearby to provide a competing food source
A study published in the Journal of Applied Ecology found that providing semi-natural land cover near farms reduced both bird and insect damage to strawberries. Encouraging insectivorous birds, quails and barn swallows, helps displace fruit-eating species naturally.
Quick-Reference: What Is Eating Your Strawberries?
Use this table to match the damage you are seeing to the most likely culprit. Once you have a match, go back to that pest’s section for targeted control steps.
Damage Type
Likely Culprit
Torn, jagged leaves
Deer
Clean 45-degree cuts on stems
Rabbits
Slime trails on leaves or fruit
Slugs and Snails
Rolled-up leaves with silk
Leafrollers
Skeletonized leaves (veins only)
Armyworms or Japanese beetles
Peck marks and holes in fruit
Birds
Small cavities in ripe berries
Sap beetles or isopods
Plants wilting, no surface damage
White grubs or root weevils
Crinkled, crumpled new leaves
Cyclamen mites
Buds clipped off stems
Strawberry bud weevil
Puckered, misshapen fruit
Lygus bugs
Sunken brown spots inside berries
Spotted wing drosophila larvae
Frothy white clumps on stems
Spittlebugs
Plant hollow at the crown
Crown borer larvae
Cached fruit buried underground
Mice or squirrels
Trampled plants and hoof tracks
Deer
General Prevention Tips That Work for All Pests
No single fix protects strawberries from every threat. Combining good garden hygiene, physical barriers, and natural predators gives you the strongest defense across all 27 pests on this list.
Garden hygiene matters most
Remove overripe fruit, fallen leaves, pulled weeds, and decaying debris promptly. Most pests shelter or feed in these areas before attacking your plants.
Water management protects fruit
Overhead sprinklers wet the entire plant and create conditions slugs, snails, mites, and fungal diseases all exploit. Drip irrigation or hand-watering keeps fruit dry and pests away.
Keep the perimeter bare
Mowed grass, trimmed lower branches, and cleared brush eliminate hiding spots for mice, voles, rabbits, and raccoons. Many pests will bypass a tidy garden for easier territory.
Physical barriers are the most reliable option
Fine-mesh netting like Phepetroll Garden Floating Row Cover protects against birds, fruit flies, and some insects simultaneously. For soil-borne pests, quarter-inch hardware cloth buried around root zones blocks voles, root weevils, and burrowing rodents.
Encourage natural predators
Ladybugs, lacewings, parasitic wasps, predatory mites, and insectivorous birds do ongoing pest control for free. Plant a variety of flowering plants to attract and sustain these beneficial species in your garden.
So What’s Eating Your Strawberries?
Many animals enjoy munching the various parts of the strawberry plant. We hope you not only found your strawberry eater in the list above but found a good way to stop it!
To recap, the best ways to discourage animals from eating your strawberries are:
Keep the area clear of weeds.
Clean up nearby rotting debris.
Remove overripe and damaged fruit.
Pay attention to the appearance of your plants.
Check for signs of damage.
Remove visible pests by hand.
Encourage insect-eating birds.
Use physical barriers to protect from larger animals.
If you’ve tried everything you can think of to protect your strawberry plants and can’t seem to combat these voracious strawberry-eating animals, consider reaching out to a professional through our nationwide pest control finder.
References
R.M. Timm, Pest Notes: Deer. UC ANR Publication 74117
Robyn is your friendly neighborhood writer, editor, and published author - boasting many years of experience in pest control, from which she magically weaves words into the captivating and engaging posts as we know them. When not tucked behind her laptop screen, she can be found embracing nature in the most thrilling ways possible. Rock climbing? Yes, please! Hiking? Absolutely! Traveling the U.S. with her husband, their lovable three-legged dog, and two mischievous cats? That’s her everyday reality. They live, love, and work in their cozy campervan, letting the road take them where it will, and finding inspiration in every sunrise, mountain peak, and wildlife sighting they encounter. Check out my Profile.
Pest Pointers was started in a cozy corner of Upstate New York, known for its expansive pastures, dense woods, and abundant wildlife pests. We are dedicated to providing YOU with solutions and insights into managing common pest issues. Starting out on over 50 acres of land and a freshwater bass pond with abundant pests, we combine firsthand experience with dedicated advice to help you tackle even the toughest of critters!
